No action yet. I read somewhere it could take about months. Here is a link that might be useful: Leaver Culture. Where do you acquire the seeds from the plants off the flowers and when do you get them when in full bloom or when they begin to close and die the flowers. I collect my Yucca and agave seeds when they are well dried and the seed pods are splitting.
I read somewhere that the viability does decrease with age, but I have still had luck with three year old seed, probably just not as much luck. Anytime anyone has Yucca or agave seed , I am always interested. I find them easy to germinate. If it is warmer they germinate quicker. If it is winter in Texas they will take a couple of months but they still germinate.
I just put them in 4" pots in a sterile medium and put the seed on the top and wiggle my fingers a bit in the top of the soil. Some go a bit into the soil and some stay on top. If to many of them float to the top.
I put some vermiculite or perlite on top. They hang outside under some oaks. I am not a very fancy methods person. Bare bones. I unexpectedly had great luck with yuccas. I pulled a few green pods off the yucca when the pods were closed. I just stored the buggers for about 2 months on top of the soil i another planter of mine with some Passiflora in it.
The seed pod then split over time and then about 3 then about months later I started splitting the pods which were now popping open. When I was pulling off the dried up pod I then noticed all the black seeds. Tons of then per pod.
I then noticed a lot of then germinated inside the pod and I just watered them into the pot and the rest is history. I now have about " tall plants in a 20" pot. In VA the common Yuccas are the white ones and thats what these are. I will be taking them out soon for either plant trades or for gifts for the neighbors or whatever.
Pretty easy though and I am sure you will be successful. These buggers are tough as nails. After reading all the comments, I just joined so I could add my comments. Recently a friend gave me some red yucca seeds. I soaked them the way you would soak morning glories, then planted them. They came up without any trouble.
These already had been chilled but that is another thing they need in order to germinate. Now the next thing is to keep them growing!! My sister has some yucca ivory towers in her yard and they are beautiful! I have since read up on them and cannot believe they thrive in the southwest! I lived on the Mohave Desert in Caifornia and don't recall ever seeing them there.
Anyway she gave me some pods and I am now going to try to germinate the seeds. I hope this works! I have a few Yucca on my property, so I have a lot of seed in which I collected from a few yuccas here. If anyone is interested in a few seeds, let me know, they are from this year I have not tried to plant any yet but am going to soon. I am not real sure of the Yucca variety that it is, but the stalks on it are white when they dry and has the white like flowers when it blooms.
Hallo Jannym i am laways interested in yucca seeds please do not trow them away, if possibel contact me on info europalms. Jannym, I would like some seeds too please. I found this site asking how long seeds would take to germinate.
The closes answer seems to be not long. I had never seen a yucca seed pod until a few days ago. I probably never looked. I was in rural North Carolina and picked 3 pods off a 10 to 11 foot yucca with nasty points. It was the second I had seen in the area with long trunks from being very old I assumed.
All the other yuccas I have seen on the East Coast have been based at ground level without trunks. I have had some great salads with the petals. I have extra seeds, if you are interested. I would be glad to share and receive more variety's. I will split the pods and dry them in a paper bag on the garage wall until April, then plant some. Some of the seeds will sprout soon after sowing, and others may take several months.
Mist the seeds every week to keep them moist but don't make the growing mixture soggy. Grow them in their original container for roughly one year. Gradually introduce them to outdoor conditions during their first year and then transplant them into 1-gallon nursery pots or into the garden.
Seed-grown plants can take two to three years to reach blooming size, warns High Country Gardens. According to Missouri Botanical Garden, red yucca plants will resist heat, drought and urban growing conditions as long as they have fast-draining soil and plenty of sunshine. Mature red yuccas will reach a height of 3 to 5 feet with a 4- to 6-foot spread, so choose a growing location that is large enough to accommodate its mature size.
Transplant the seed-grown plants into the garden in spring. Make sure they're planted at the same depth as they were in the pot. Red yuccas require very little care once established in the garden, but they do need regular watering for their first summer in the ground to help them stay hydrated while they establish new roots.
Provide 1 inch of water each week. Make sure the soil dries out between waterings. Red yucca are seldom troubled by insects or other pests, but deer will feast on their foliage if given the chance, so grow them in a fenced-in area if possible. This method requires an already mature yucca plant.
Find one that already has several side shoots. Choose one shoot that you would like to grow your new plant from. Dig a perimeter. With your shovel, loosen the soil around the plant. Dig in a circle around the plant about five inches outside of the shoot. Do not worry if you cut through roots. Remove the plant. As you dig, you can start lifting up the plant from below with your shovel. Lift the plant until you are able to remove the whole shoot and the root ball from the ground. Plant outdoors.
Once you have removed the root ball, you can transplant the shoot to another location. Follow the same instructions and guidelines for planting the yucca plant outdoors. Part 4. Make sure your yucca plant can survive your climate. Plant your yucca during the late spring. Yucca plants thrive during the warm summer months.
Planting the yucca at the beginning of the warm weather season gives it the longest growing season possible. Choose a location that receives full sun.
Yucca plants need a hot, dry environment, so give your plant access to direct sunlight. Certain yucca species can thrive in colder or shadier locations, but these are in the minority, and typically still do well in full sunlight. If the plant was kept in a shady location, consider moving the pot to an area of indirect sunlight for a week before moving it into full sun. This gives it time to adjust, reducing the chance of burning or withering. Prepare the right soil.
You should make sure that there is neither too much gravel nor too much soil. Form a raised bed over the stones optional. If you built a stone bed, build a wooden wall around the location the yucca will be planted in to hold in the soil that will form a raised bed above the stones. Nail four 3 feet 0. You may wish to tilt the bed facing toward a sunny direction. Tilt south in the northern hemisphere, north in the southern hemisphere.
Alternatively, tightly pack one or two dozen large stones that measure about 1 foot 0. This is more labor-intensive, but may provide additional drainage. Prepare the soil. Yucca needs a fast-draining soil to prevent root rot. Use a special yucca or cactus potting mix, or mix your own with three parts lightweight clay, four parts sand, and one part ordinary soil.
Otherwise, simply have this soil ready for later. Dig a hole for the yucca. The hole should be twice as wide and twice as deep as the yucca's root ball. Slightly larger than the current pot the yucca is kept in should be enough if you are not sure how big the root ball is. Place the yucca in the hole with the prepared soil around it.
Gently pry the yucca out of its pot. Turn the pot on its side. Grab the yucca at the base of the stem and slowly "wiggle" it out, soil, roots, and all. Place the yucca into the newly dug hole.
Fill the rest of the hole with your soil mix and pack the soil around the base of the stem to hold the plant in place. The roots should not show above ground. Top the soil with 2 inches 5 cm of granite chippings.
The chippings keep the root dry at the neck by preventing water from splashing onto it accidentally. Part 5. Fertilize rarely. Use a water-soluble, potassium rich fertilizer, diluted to a ratio of about one part fertilizer to four parts water. Apply it once a month during the summer months, during the morning.
Fertilize yucca zero to two times during the entire cool season autumn through winter. Only fertilize more quickly if your yucca is a fast-growing species. Most yucca species are slow-growing and can be harmed by excess fertilizer. Similarly, if you miss a monthly fertilization in the summer, it is not a big deal. The plant will likely still grow. Some recommend only fertilizing yucca once a year.
This is because yucca can survive well in areas with low nutrients. Water sparingly. Many yucca plants can get by without any supplementary watering, relying solely on rainwater to survive. Once foliage starts to develop in the warm months, however, you can water it weekly, giving the plant just enough water to slightly moisten the soil without making it wet to the touch. This is a sign of over-watering. Check your plant for pests. Not many pests are drawn to yucca, but snails and slugs will attack new growth.
Use a standard pesticide or organic pesticide to get rid of them. Small, green aphids can be washed off with soapy water. Monitor the plant for signs of fungal disease. Rust and mildew are the most common diseases. Spraying a fungicide may help rid the plant of disease, especially if it is only mildew, but a fungicide may or may not work against rust.
Prune the plant when necessary. Some yucca grow in a rosette shape, and produce a long, central flower stalk. After it dies, this stalk should be cut back all the way to the base to prevent rot. Other yucca varieties are tall and tree-like. These may be pruned to direct growth, but always wear gloves and safety goggles, as yucca can send sharp splinters flying when cut. Add a layer of mulch over the bed each winter. Yucca plants can be damaged if exposed directly to frost.
Spreading a thick layer of mulch can go a long way in keeping the plant warm and dry. However, keep mulch away from the lowest leaves to prevent rot.
Divide the plant. If the Yucca grows too thick and dense after a few years, you can take a shoot from it to plant elsewhere. Choose an offshoot you would like to remove, dig a perimeter around it, and lift the shoot from below with a shovel.
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